But even THAT didn't constitute the REAL festival, seeing as the ACTUAL saint day wasn't until the 23rd. So the weekend before, the entire zone of Abufador turned into a street party (though the street itself wasn't blocked off until Sunday, but what's a few cars driving down the road amongst a group of festival-goers, right?). Much like other festas, San Joao consists of lots of walking around, lots of food vendors selling grilled meats and french fries and drinks (out of little make-shift shack type restaurants and bars called "barakas") and lots of general craziness. On roof tops, discos magically appear for festa goers to dance the night away (by which I mean, around 2am folks start to GO to the discos and dance til dawn), there are fashion shows in the racinda (sort of like a small stadium) accompanied by live music some days, including big acts such as Gil (zouk singer that everyone loves here - we were too cheap to spend the $1000CVE to get in).
Our friend's aunts baraka (you can see how dusty it was!)
During the day, you can visit these same baraks and also ones that sell clothes, sunglasses, shoes, jewelery, sort of a flea market with both cheap products from China and stuff that has been sent over from Brazil and America...which probably were also made in China. On the weekend (19th - 21st) there was an agricultural fair, where - I hope you're sitting down for this - we found BROCCOLI! Now, it might have been the WORST broccoli I've ever had in my life, totally bitter, but we were in heaven. Santo Antao is well known for their cheeses, grogues, ponches and liquors (the last three all being forms of alcohol, btw) and some of the producers have learned some great marketing principles and bottle their wares quite nicely. We bought a few unique flavors of ponche and liquor, including passion fruit. We also had the privilege of trying bolacha liquor, which was AMAZING, and chocolate as well - sort of like Bailey's style drinks. Bolacha, btw, is a type of cookie/biscuit (Tarantellis - think Italian nothing cookies). Most days as well there were horse races by the ocean. We generally skip these - let's just say that animals aren't always well cared for here and leave it at that.
The agriculture fair
So we spent the days of the weekend shopping and doing agricultural stuff and the nights dancing our butts off, and come Monday...we were exhausted. We TRIED to head in early, but then my counterpart insisted that Monday was the best night! There was the Desfile de Grupos de Sao Joao! Huh? So out we went, no idea what to expect, other than it was "sort of like Carnival!" and we'd be walking with this group...er...ok...well, each zone that chooses to designs a float, has dancers and women walking around with fruit and statues of saints on their head and palm leaves, and everyone is danced in "old" aka traditional clothing of long black skirts (or pants for the men, with the pant legs rolled up), white blouses and lensus on their head (long scarves that you wrap your hair in).
Getting ready for the Desfile de Grupos
They dance in pairs, in sort of a...4 4 count...sort of like...er...well they walk up to each other, taking big steps, and then raise their hands and jump forward, slamming their pelvises into one another. I am so not kidding. Then they back up, some spin around, and then repeat. It is QUITE the site to see. Men do it with men, women with women, and men and women together.
Dancing the Coladeira :bump:
And here's where they randomly plop a church down...check out my counterpart with the drum...and the dude in the yellow - BEST outfit EVER!
Oh and one other thing. At ALL the festas we go to, there is always someone in the procession wearing a boat. Yes, WEARING a boat. We have tried to get to the bottom of this phenomenon to no avail. We've come to the conclusion that it must have something to do with the whole living on an island thing, especially before there were planes. We're still looking into it. In other news...my counterpart has enlisted yours truly to help with choreography for next years festa in our zone (Armazem). Stay tuned...
The boats
But wait, there's SO much more!
I know by now you're asking yourself "Wait wait guys, if you are out til 4 or 5am every morning at the disco and dancin' in the streets, and then getting up for daytime fun (oh yeah I should mention the heat here was in the 100s during S. Joao so there was no sleeping past 8am)...WHEN do you SLEEP!? Well...we asked the same question to several of our friends and co workers, and the response was always the same: SO FESTA!!! "So" in Kriolu means "Only" and "festa" of course means "party like a rockstar." So there you have it: no sleep, just party. And that is literally how it is. We tried really really hard to nap, but how could you when it was 114 degrees out? I think by Tuesday afternoon I was actually in tears I was so tired and hot and miserable...but of course Tuesday is the MAIN day, and we haven't even gotten there yet...
Tuesday is the actual Sao Joao Baptista day. What exactly does that mean? It means that everyone piles in cars at 7 30 in the morning from Porto Novo and heads up to the small town of Ribera das Patas, where we meet up with an actual statue of the saint and then WALK back to Porto Novo. Or, if you're like any reasonably intelligent (and lazy) person, you walk to Lagedos and then take a car the rest of the way down. So we did! Tons of people were there, lots of drumming and a couple of stops along the way for food and drinks (if you were fast enough to get your hands on it) compliments of the local government. We walked, we took pictures, we saw dancing in the streets, we bailed. Tried to finally take a nap but no, 114 degrees would not allow it, and so we struggled through the day (I think I took 4 showers that day) in order to party it up, again, at night. Of course that night was the biggest of the nights and we stayed out for all of it. Or at least all of it that I could stay awake for - I have a vague recollection of falling asleep at a table...the next night was more of the same: lack of sleep during the day, dancing all night until FINALLY, the final night of the festa arrived: Dia 25 de Junho, Sao Joaozinho, where the Saint returns to his home in Ribera das Patas to chill for another year.
The procession from R. das Patas to Porto Novo
Saint JB, up close and personal
That nights event was up in R. das Patas, and...of course...we dragged our butts up there around 4 30 to check it out. It was definitely smaller, but more intimate and more fun. We saw more people we knew and had fun laughing and talking and drinking and dancing. That day we actually sort of got a nap in at another volunteers house (sort of) and headed back out around 11. Little did we know...
Because we'd gone up so early, we grabbed a backpack with clothes to change and my contacts, glasses, random stuff. Because we were in Ribera das Patas, it never occurred to us that it would be a bad idea to take said backpack down to the party with us. We were obviously mistaken. After wandering around talking with friends and having a grand old time, we went up to one of the roof top discos (yep, they had them in RdP too) to dance. I was dancing with our friend Chuky when I saw Josh walk by with our friend Nany...and an open backpack. I grabbed him and looked inside - they'd taken almost everything. It was the most random assortment of things too: my glasses, my sun glasses, my make up case (?), our pen drive (damn), my brush, Josh's PC hat, Josh's shorts, his shirt...but they didn't take everything, and I still don't know why they took things like my comb...but alas, for the first time in Cape Verde, we were "cash or body"'d.
The expression "Cash or body" or, as they say it "cah sho baw dee" sounds like it is: it's what muggers say when they want your stuff - gimme your cash or I'll take your body. But people, especially in the fora (countryside) use it for any sort of pickpocketing etc. Apparently what happened to us, several young gentlemen from Mindelo (our friend described them as rastas) circled around Josh from behind without him knowing it and then unzipped his bag and robbed him. Because there were so many of them, they were able to cut him off from our friend Nany and cause a distraction so no one could either notice or stop them. Nany saw it happen (that's how we know who it was) but because he had been cut off from Josh, couldn't do much. Plus...they took his picture (Nany's), which is what they will apparently do as a threat, meaning If you tell who we are, we know who YOU are.
Okay this all sounds far more sinister than it really is, though I suppose I could be wrong and maybe it IS really that sinister, but in the end...it WAS the last night of Sao Joao after all...and there wasn't anything we could do about it...so we found a friend of a friend who had a baraka and stashed what was left of our stuff and went back to the disco to dance our cares away. And dance we did! It was probably (post theft) one of the most fun nights out I had had to date. There is nothing like being with a group of 10 Cape Verdean friends in the midst of a packed crowd dancing together, especially when you are the only white people there and you really, really like to dance. I admit it, we like the attention, but then again we like the attention we draw when we're dancing in America too!
Around 5am we took a Hilux home (open backed pick up truck with benches) and fell fast asleep. Thus ended what is truly one of the largest saint festivals in all of Cape Verde, and we could not have been happier.
Stay tuned tomorrow for another exciting episode of "24 Hour Party People." In the next installment, Dove and Josh go to Mindelo for a 10 day vacation starting with Love Feria and ending with the huge music festival Baia das Gatas!
